Often left out in the feverish rush between the Okavango Delta and Chobe, the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is an amazing place that rewards the intrepid traveller willing to head off the beaten tourist track. On the northern edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the Makgadikgadi, Sua, Ntwetwe and Nxai pans are remnants of a super-lake that once covered the area and supported long extinct monsters of a forgotten world. In winter, the ancient past and immediate present dance on the shimmering horizon of the vast salt pans; the desolate silence tingles with electricity and the strange world around you teeters between eerie and comforting. This land has remained unchanged for thousands of years and local San hunter-gatherers work with exclusive lodges to offer you an insight into their ancient ways and ingenious means of survival. While there are no fixed lodges or hotels in the park, there are several designated campsites. This limits access to all but the fully equipped self-drive visitor, or those on tailor-made safaris.